I was lucky enough to have the opportunity to attend the New Zealand in a Glass public and trade tasting in Melbourne recently. These events are fantastic for several reasons: first, you get to taste a wide variety of wines (87 wineries pouring over 430 wines). Second, you get to taste a wide variety of wine styles (e.g., getting many takes on what a Chardonnay or Pinot Noir can taste like by different winemakers). Third, you get to meet and talk to the winemaker, which almost always adds some dimension or insight to the wine tasting experience. You get to hear the wine’s narrative, so to speak, which can propel your understanding of a wine a step or two up the knowledge ladder.

As I have said before, New Zealand wine is rising fast on the world’s vino radar and this time it is not just for the tsunami of Savvy they produce, but for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, some great Riesling and the very limited but stunning Syrah.

The tasting session was, if anything, a bit overwhelming, with such good juice on pour, made twice as deadly by food plates that emptied in mere seconds, making it virtually impossible to counteract the alcohol to any great degree (yes, I did spit). Nevertheless, I plodded gamely forward and besides the four wines reviewed in detail I thought I should mention a few of the standouts:

• Bridge Pa Wines – Bridge Pa specialize in Syrah but have Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Franc under vine. The winery gets its name from the Bridge Pa Triangle, which is one of the premier grape growing sites in Hawke’s Bay. They offer two levels of Syrah: a Vineyard Reserve Syrah ($42, 2008 vintage) and the über premium Louis Syrah ($58, 2007 vintage). Bridge Pa wines are around Melbourne but it just may take a bit of a search (I know the Winehouse stocks them).

• Black Estate – Located in Omihi area of the Waipara Valley north of Christchurch, Black Estate has been one of my consistent favourites, managing to produce stunningly great flavoured wines in even somewhat troublesome or sketchy vintages. All three wines on offer at the tasting (Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling) confirm this, but the Chardonnay ($30) stood out as a winner. Possessing the somewhat paradoxical qualities of elegance and power, this is no mealy wine but one with a lush and honeyed palate, serious weight and lingering, lingering finish.

• Wooing Tree – I have tasted the Wooing Tree Pinot Noirs since the first release in 2005 and proudly stocked them on my wine list in New Zealand. They are representative of what many folks have come to expect from a New Zealand Central Otago Pinot: a BIG wine that is rich, lush, deep, plummy and delicious – and balanced. The current release is the 2008 (at around $55) and it ticks all the boxes and then some. Also keep a lookout for Wooing Tree’s second label called Beetle Juice – the 2009 vintage is out and should set you back no more than $40

Elephant Hill Estate Syrah Hawke’s Bay 2009 $33

Elephant Hill Estate is a relatively young winery, planting its first vines in 2003 and reaping the first harvest in 2009. I have always liked and been very impressed with Elephant Hill Estate’s wines from the first tasting and I continue to be thrilled – enough to include two of their wines in this review. I had this wine back in August 2010 at the great Hawke’s Bay Hot Red Roadshow and would have reviewed it then but they had no Australian distributor – now they do (Sandra Frost, Zenith Wine Agencies, 0428 614 066, www.zenithwineagencies.com.au).

This is stunningly good Syrah for $33 – first rate and so, so quaffable. The colour is very, very black, hinting at the silky, meaty, viscous flavours that will envelop your mouth.

Elephant Hill Estate Viognier Hawke’s Bay 2010 $33

One of the relatively new and hot grape varieties that has started rising to the top of the white wine radar screens is Viognier.

Viognier, like Pinot Gris, can be a grape that many wine makers are still struggling to nail down a good style.

Viognier translated from Latin means ‘road to hell’ and I think that is how some wineries feel about it on their bad days. But this example is spot on and pays good homage to its French heritage. It reeks of tropical and stone fruit flavours, but has good acidity, which keeps it clear of any detectable oiliness.

Finely hand-crafted (it took six separate hand harvests to bring the fruit in), it’s a sheer pleasure to drink. Elephant Hill can be a bit hard to find in the retail space so try these folks: www.alwaysonsale.com.au/aos/brands/399-elephant-hill-nz/

Mt. Difficulty Pinot Noir Central Otago 2009 $50

I’m sure many of you Pinot fiends are already aware of Mt. Difficulty and the pinnacle of Pinot Noir heaven they achieve with every single vintage. This is the entry-level wine for the premium range, which tops out with the Long Gully Single Vineyard Pinot Noir (their second label Roaring Meg is also one to keep you eye peeled for).

This wine is what I would call simply a crowd pleaser – there won’t be a dissenting voice in the house if your pour this baby. Still quite restrained at this early stage, but at the same time in full possession of all the dark, lush cherry fruits you can handle. I like a Pinot Noir to have a decent amount of body and palate weight (Central Otago seems to do that well) and this one has it in spades.

Cambridge Road Syrah Marlborough 2008 $50

This was easily my favourite wine of the tasting – every sip was like wrapping my tongue in the softest piece of silk with many memories of classic Northern Rhône wines rushing round and round my palate. This was the first Syrah vintage (from 22 year old vines) for Cambridge Road and only 7 barrels of this wine was made from what was considered to be a very hot and tricky vintage. Very gently and sublimely oaked, it oozes black fruits and has that classic zing of white peppercorns on the finish. One slight oddity – it has about 9% Pinot Noir, which is a blend combo I have never come across. Cambridge Road make another wine called the Dovetail which is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Syrah – who’d of thought it? This is a wine to make the extra effort for and open up the wallet.

+ 1

+ 1