Whether or not you believe in climate change, many people (including winemakers and viticulturists) whose livelihood directly relies on Mother Nature have to, at a minimum, hedge their bets in some way, shape or form.

It has been getting hotter and drier in the Australian wine regions for quite a wee while and changing course in a vineyard is no small feat. It is not something that can be done in a month, a year or even several years, as grape vines planted today will be unproductive or unusable (if you want to make decent wines) for years. In fact, in Bordeaux it used to be common practice at the top tier estates that grapes from young vines were not used until they were at least 10 years old. Couple that with the fact that today’s Australian wine industry, by just about everyone’s opinion, has about 25% to 30% too much grape growing ability, they are clearly stuck between the proverbial rock and a hard place and their next steps can either prove fortuitous or foolish.

So some of the ‘early adopter’ vineyards and winemakers have been identifying and planting grape varietals (fiano, Greco di tufo, primativo, vermentino, etc) from wine areas of the world (e.g., the Mediterranean) that better suit a hotter and drier climate.

Quite a few of these wines are starting to make their way to good wine stores around Melbourne (try Cloudwine, The Prince Wine Store, Randall’s, Blackhearts and Sparrows or the Seddon Wine Store to name a few) but you will need to make the effort and also be quick about it as they are not made in great quantities – yet.

Beach Road Fiano 2009 $22

I have to say I loved this wine – it was very hard not to on a sunny summer’s day with just the right chill.

Fiano is a grape variety from hills of Avellino in Campania, Italy which is in the southern end of the boot, right on the blue waters of the Mediterranean.

This wine took the top white wine trophy at the Alternative Varieties Wine Show last year and it clearly should have in my opinion. It’s got oodles of fruits that seem to evolve as it warms in the glass and a most luscious mouth feel that just seems to velvetize your mouth. Be quick and track down and grab a bottle of this before it vanishes.

Yalumba Vermetino 2009 $13 - $15

This is a clear and definite white wine summer bargain and marvellous quaffer to please all your friends and family and your wallet.

The grape Vermentino comes from the Italian region of Liguria and the Mediterranean Islands of Corsica and Sardinia.

The most oft used adjective for this wine is ‘refreshing’ as it bursts with layers of tropical fruit flavours. So whip yourself up a grand summer salad or grill a piece of fish on the BBQ and enjoy a match made in heaven – or in Italy at least.

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