A picnic is one of those occasions that is so weather dependent that if the day dawns brilliant and the mood takes the party, there is an imperative to be able to head off without delay.

The management of picnic assembly though can deflate the most ardent of spirits as one hunts down all those bits that are never readily handy but believed essential for a meal on a rug. There is a lot to be said though for the tempers and pleasures of the occasion in simply grabbing a perfect light, fresh summer wine and an equally perfect light, fresh cheese.

A baguette probably wont go astray and perhaps some strawberries; grab some glasses, a cooler, a corkscrew, some napkins and the rug, pack the lot into a sturdy box; before you know it you are walking triumphantly and efficiently out that door.

Matt Fegan, chef at the Royal George Hotel in Kyneton, perfectly matches the exciting, new Sutton Grange, 2008 Fairbank Rouge with a tricked - up Holy Goat Fromage Frais, the cleverest picnic combination. The wine making of Sutton Grange and the culinary traditions of their neighbor Sutton Grange Organic Farm (producers of Holy Goat Cheese) almost seem to have evolved together. Each reflects a French influence and a respect of terroir making them perfectly complementary. Sutton Grange, home to Sutton Grange Wines and Sutton Grange Organic Farm is about one and a half hours drive north of Melbourne along the Calder Highway, and is 30km south of Bendigo, between Macedon and Heathcote, just east of historic Castlemaine. A perfect place for a picnic actually.

Gilles Lapalus, wine maker at Sutton Grange is a gentle, engaging man, passionate about his wine and its opportunities. He combines the knowledge and traditions of his French heritage with new world technology to produce wines of a distinctive style and interpretation from central Victorian vines. The 2008 Fairbank Rouge is an exceptional example of an Australian summer, “drink now” alternative. While lightness in wine may not be considered a fashionable virtue, the Rouge is a vibrant, refreshing wine, a darker, more robust and structured version of their Rose.

Biodynamically grown Syrah, Cabernet and Merlot were manually harvested in February and March before the onslaught of an autumn heat wave. As with the Beaujolais style of Gilles’ native Burgundy, malo- lactic fermentation takes place in French oak barrels and plastic vats, after the grapes are direct pressed and the Merlot and Syrah have undergone carbonic maceration. The wine was blended in July and underwent egg white fining and course filtration before being bottled in August.

This young, fresh wine is described in the tasting notes as intensely red with purple hues with good limpidity. A respectably complex nose of fruit (strawberry and cherry with some banana) evolving towards floral aromas (iris and peony) with a touch of black pepper. It is soft, textured and round in the mouth with a dominant fruit (strawberry) flavor followed by some spice (vanilla and pepper). The length is medium, the alcohol at 13.5% combines with some fresh acids and light and fine tannins to produce a wonderfully balanced summer wine with a savoury touch. The Rouge is an early drinking, quaffing wine more demanding of being drunk than being discussed. A perfect combination of old world balance and new world length, it should be served chilled and is a worthy addition to every picnic box this summer.

Carla Meurs and Ann Marie Monda produce organic Chevre at Sutton Grange Organic Farm where they tend an organically certified goatherd and produce cheese that’s certified Level A with the National Association for Sustainable Agriculture Australia (NASAA). Holy Goat cheeses are made using lactic acid fermentation. Their Fromage Frais is a delicious sweet, moist, soft creamy goats milk curd with a fresh citrus finish, low in saturated fats. Delicious on its own, it can be combined with any number of combinations such as strawberries or tomato and basil or to enjoy with Sutton Grange 2008 Rouge, a mix of herbs as shown on page 17.

Visit Gilles Lapalus at Sutton Grange Wines, Carnachan’s Lane, Sutton Grange, Victoria.

Cellar door is open on weekends and tasting plates featuring local produce are available. Phone cellar door: 03 5474 8284. www.suttongrangewines.com

The Fairbank Rouge 2008, is available from Prince Wines Stores, South Melbourne who also supply other wines from Sutton Grange. Be sure to try the fabulous aperitif style Sutton Grange Estate Flor Rose Lot Spring 2007 (limited), The Fairbank Rose 2008 and the Fairbank Viognier, 2008.

Prince Wine Store

177 Bank St,

South Melbourne. Phone: 9686 3033

Visit Sutton Grange Organic Farm

“Wooroomook”,

112 Redesdale Rd,

Sutton Grange, Victoria.

Phone: 03 5474 8289

Visit Matt Fegan at the Royal George Hotel

24 Piper St, Kyneton.

Phone: 03 5422 1390

Sunday Relish was a guest at the Sutton Grange 2008 Vintage Release held at the Royal George Hotel, Kyenton in October.

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