L’Epicerie is in an unlikely precinct at 265 Glen Eira Road in Elsternwick. You will find it tucked discreetly between a garage and an odd looking bakery, in a small commercial strip away from the purposeful bustle of Ripponlea. Reassurance, however, follows the moment you glimpse through the windows and walk in the door of this small and charming establishment. Nestled in leafy Elsternwick but believably from provincial France, L’Epicerie is everything you would expect of a French wine bar come bistro.

The light inside is low, it is warm, the bar is of dark wood, the arrangement of bottles and glasses reflect in the opposite wall of mirrors burnished with this months wine specials. The conversation is buzzing and your table ready for you. The tables are square and arranged in an orderly manner. The cloth napkins, cutlery and glassware arrangements promise that things are done properly here. The music is not too loud, French of course, as is the maitre d’, resplendent in his immaculate white apron. Comfortable with his “Bon Soirs”, taking our coats and seating us, he apologizes for his English as he takes our order for drinks and later runs through the daily specials. My daughters are shameless in encouraging him. His accent is adorable.

L’Epicerie is the second Australian establishment of owner, Olivier Normandin of Bordeaux. The success of the original Le Bistro continues in the more edgy Greville St, Prahran address which is testament to Normandin’s ability to do what he knows well: uncomplicated, classic, French bistro style food. Together with his French chef Jacky Frenot and all French staff, L’Epicerie proffers a decidedly enjoyable French dining experience of excellent value. A comprehensive and reasonably priced wine list recommends mainly French and Australian wines with a selection by the glass.

A curious thing about L’Epicierie is that even though every time we come to this desirable local of ours and are tempted to do otherwise, we revert invariably to what we had last time. Suggestions of tripe, Moules Marinieres , a Steak Tartare, Rabbit with Tarragon Mustard or Duck Leg Confit with a cider and calvados sauce all fail to sway us. This is no intellectual pursuit; our choices are entirely governed by the memories of the stomach. Spouse routinely falls for the French onion soup, rich and aromatic. The selection of charcuterie, produced in the kitchen served with crusty French bread, perfect with a glass of Cote de Rhone for me. The steak and pommes fritte with a choice of sauces are always excellent. Coming here need not be about delving into unknown restaurant selections which require an entirely different frame of mind; L’Epicierie is about being cradled in comfort foods and familiarity; not about pretensions or complications. This is where you can come to make as many or as few decisions as you please. What a blessed relief!

L’Epicerie

Open: 7 days - 12pm to 3pm and 6pm to closing

Ph: 03 9523 0391

Web: www.chezolivier.com

Licensed and BYO Sunday to Thursday ($11.00 per bottle corkage)

Prices:

• Entrees: $12.90 - $19.90
• Mains: $26.90 - $41.90
• Deserts: $11.90 - $14.90
• Cheese: $12.90 - $13.90
• Lunch a Prix Fixe: from $24.00 for 2 courses
• Dinner a Prix Fixe: from $36.00 for 3 courses Sunday to Thursday

Vegetarian: Options available

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