Aglianico (pronounced al-yah-nee-co), one of Italy’s oldest species of vine, is grown in the homeland of the Latin poet Horace, who recommended “Nulla, vare, sacre vite prius severis arborem” (Ode 1- Verse 18) “not to plant any tree before having planted the sacred vine” (Ode to Varus).

Aglianico is a dark-skinned Italian grape variety of Greek origin. It is mainly cultivated in the mountainous centre of Italy’s south predominantly in Campania and Basilicata. The variety shows a preference for volcanic soils and its best results have been established in the two DOCs of Taurasi in Campania and Monte Vulture in Basilicata, where elevations of 450 to 600 metres provide for cool nights after the dry heat of the days. The winters are harsh and the summers are warm. These features provide the body, the complexity, the strength and wonderful aromas of this interesting varietal wine. Currently, Aglianico is also being grown in Australia and California.

Aglianico is one of the most important wines of Southern Italy, emerging from a reputation as a relatively unexciting variety of dubious quality. Today, at its best, it is favorably compared to Nebbiolo of Piedmont and the Sangiovese of Tuscany and is sometimes enthusiastically referred to as “The Barolo of the South”. There are over fifty producers between the two DOC areas producing wine of varied standards, honoring the characteristics of this relatively challenging grape variety in different ways. Experimentation with modern technology sensitive to traditional production methods have improved the general quality of Aglianico.

Aglianico renders full bodied, elegant wines with strong but soft tannins and high acidity, the perfect accompaniment to robust foods such as a meat ragu with pappardelle, liberally doused with grated pecorino (a rich meat and tomato stew served with wide ribbon pasta and grated hard cheese such as pecorino or parmesan). The astringency of the wine also cuts well with the fat in foods such as lamb. Aglianico is characterized by a deep ruby color, full of aromas and powerful intense flavors. Younger wines often produce fabulous floral aromas. The characteristic flavors of Aglianico are of tar, tobacco, leather, Marasca cherry and black pepper. The appearance of tar, which the French and Italians refer to as goudron, is sometimes considered a defect, but appears in certain great wines. Aglianico is increasingly being recognized by informed and discriminating consumers as offering excellent value and an opportunity to wake that jaded palate up.

Most wineries use modern technology to improve the drinkability of the wine while young. Improving the drinkability of young wine though can be at odds with a wine meant for aging. Aglianico is classically high in tannin, acidity and alcohol and it begs to be aged. Some modern wine makers see the powerful structure of tannin and acidity as obstacles to be overcome. Innovative harvesting and cellaring processes seem to have been the solution and meet the fiscal realities of new producers for whom putting wine aside to age gracefully is no more than a nostalgic point of reference.

Such practices leave traditional producers like the D’Angelos, in the DOC region of Basilicata in a frustrating position. The D’Angelo winery name has been synonymous with Aglianico for almost a century. Producing a classic Aglianico wine, using traditional methodology in a heart breaking commitment to their work, they lament they are rarely rewarded these days in a difficult industry where success is precarious. The influence of the directives of powerful wine commentators and award systems seem to pay no heed to the twenty four seven devotion given by traditional wine makers. Enoteca Sileno in Lygon St, North Carlton are the sole distributors of D’Angelo wines in Australia.

Grifalco Winery is the new player in Basilicata. Fabrizio Piccin and Cecilia Naldoni have arrived from Montepulciano, where they have been producing Vino Nobile since 1974. They have come with a vision recognizing enormous potential in Aglianico in Basilicata. Their 2004 vintage is their first and it is splendid. Their wine is vibrant, interesting and bounces with vitality. They have a mix of newly planted vines, selected from the best of older vines and others over half a century old in five locations. Production is certified organic. Tired of and bored with the inflated Tuscan markets, dominated by banks and multinationals, Piccin claims to have rediscovered his passion for wine making in Aglianico. Grifalco is currently looking for an exporter to Australia.

The establishment of Aglianico in the Murray Darling region at the Chalmers winery has culminated in encouraging results for a variety that thrives in the heat, a healthy solution for the realities of global warming. Sandro Mosele, wine maker for Kooyong on the Mornington Peninsula, is contract wine maker for Chalmers. The Chalmers 2005 Aglianico is testament to Mosele’s desire to produce distinctive wines, characteristic of their variety and reflective of their new environment. Chalmers 2005 Aglianico is available at Elwood Wine and Spirits (33 Ormond Rd, Elwood, 9531 8555) for around $25.00 per bottle.

Inspired by Edward Behr’s article “Aglianico in Basilicata” (Art of Eating, 2007, Number 76), Sunday Relish recently visited the D’Angelo and Grifalco wineries in Basilicata, Italy.

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