Inspired by Marcella Hazen’s Ossobuco in Bianco

Osso bucco is such a delicious thing to eat, such an impressive and relatively simple dish to serve for a luncheon or dinner party, that everyone should become confident in adding this meal to their repertoire of ridiculously simple and uncomplicated dishes. A slow braise of veal shanks in butter and white wine, served with a gremolata of parsley, lemon zest and garlic, it is one of the few Italian dishes not eaten on its own but traditionally accompanied by a Risotto Milanese, a delicate, plain risotto, colored and flavored with saffron.

Osso bucco means “bone with a hole”, in this case the bone is a calf’s hind shank, full of marrow, and the meat that encircles it is the sweetest and most tender meat of the animal when cooked with due care and attention. You need to allow up to three hours from starting the preparation of this dish to serving it, although the preparation time only takes about 15 – 20 minutes. That said, the risotto is another matter; plan for 30 minutes of your undivided attention just before serving.

Osso bucco is often displayed pre-cut in the butcher’s window at this time of year, however most butchers will prepare it to order. Be sure to confirm that the butcher is selling you veal not beef osso bucco as beef osso bucco is larger in size, takes considerably longer to cook and will render an entirely different result. Ensure you are being provided with the hind shank and ask the butcher to saw the shin bone into 4cm thick pieces. I have cooked slightly thicker pieces with success with additional cooking time; however it is important that all pieces are of the same thickness. The two ends can be discarded (or returned to you for the addition to a stock or the joys of the household dog). It is also important that the butcher retain the surrounding skin, enveloping the shank. Not only does it help the meat retain its shape during cooking but it offers a creamy consistency and unmistakable flavor to the dish. Veal shanks are rich in collagen and so long as they are left to simmer gently (barely a tremble in the pan) they will produce a relatively forgiving, rich, gelatinous sauce and tender meat. This recipe relies on slow, patient cooking and can be left virtually unattended for the duration of its cooking time, allowing you to attend to other matters.

I never understood the addition of tomatoes to osso bucco that you often see. Osso bucco is a Milanese dish and it is unusual that tomatoes would appear in Northern Italian cooking. Not only does this recipe proffer a comparatively light and fragrant dish than the more robust version with tomatoes and vegetables but there are fewer ingredients to worry about, the preparation time is reduced and the fresh flavors of the gremolata and the subtlety of the risotto get to declare themselves. Further, you can cook the osso bucco in one large, heavy pot or pan on top of the stove. The gremolata and the risotto Milanese can be prepared while the meat is cooking, just before you are ready to serve the meal.

The flavor of this dish does not endure refrigeration particularly well; however it can be prepared earlier in the day and then reheated before serving. To reheat the dish, keep it in the pan it was cooked in, cover and place over low heat, for 10 – 15 minutes, heating the meat through. That said don’t be afraid to keep any left-overs for the next day or so; they remain wonderful. Ensure there are sufficient juices in the pan throughout the cooking process, and if necessary, replenish the fluids with some water, keeping at least 1cm in the base of the pan.

Osso Bucco

Ingredients (For 6 people)

• 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 25g butter
• 8 slices of veal hind shank at room temperature
• 2 dessertspoons plain flour spread on a plate
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 250 ml dry white wine

Gremolata

• 2 tablespoon lemon zest
• 5 tablespoon chopped parsley
• 1 teaspoon crushed garlic

Equipment

• A large, heavy sauté pan, 25cm (approx) with a lid or a heavy iron pot that can accommodate the shanks snugly in a single layer. In case you don’t have a large enough pan, use two pans, dividing the ingredients between the two. It is important though that the meat fit snugly in the vessel it is being cooked in. Sometimes I brown the meat in two pans and then find that, with shrinkage, they can be accommodated in one.
• A pair of tongs
• A zester, or peeler for preparing the lemon zest
• A slotted spoon
• A warm serving platter that can accommodate the cooked meat and juices.

Method

• Put the oil and butter into the pan over medium – high heat. Once the butter starts to foam, wait until the frothing subsides, turn each shank in the flour, coating both sides, tap it on the plate to remove any excess flour and slip the meat into the pan. Do this individually for each slice of veal shank. Do not attempt to flour the meat in advance because this will only make it soggy.
• Brown the meat thoroughly on all sides. This may take a few minutes on each side, so don’t be impatient and don’t use such a high heat that the meat burns. You shouldn’t need to add any more butter or oil, so long as you control the heat.
• Once the meat is browned, sprinkle with salt and pepper on each side.
• Add the wine, adjusting the heat to a very slow simmer. Cover the pan, with the lid slightly askew and cook for 10 minutes
• Make sure there is about 1cm liquid in the base of the pan, adding a little warm water if necessary.
• Turn the shanks in the pan, “washing” the ooze coming through the hole. Arrange the shanks so that the broadest part of the bone is on the base of the pan.
• Cover the pan and continue on a slow simmer, so that the fluids in the pan are bubbling slowly. You will ruin this dish if you allow it to boil. Check the pan throughout the cooking time, to ensure there is sufficient water in the pan, and replenish accordingly.
• The total cooking time for this size veal shank slices is about 2 – 2 ½ hours. The meat is done when it dislodges easily from the bone with nudging from a fork and is tender to eat.
• While it is cooking prepare the lemon zest, garlic and parsley for the gremolata
• About half an hour before you think the meat should be ready, start preparing the risotto. If you wish, you can delay starting the cooking of the risotto until the meat is in fact cooked and just gently reheat the meat to coincide with the risotto being ready. A friend of mine has a saying: “The risotto waits for no one, the table awaits the risotto.” If anyone has been offering to help you, you are going to need them about now.
• Check the seasoning, adding salt and pepper if necessary
• Remove the Osso bucco from the pan, transferring it gently to a warm serving platter, using a slotted spoon.
• Use a wooden spoon over medium heat to loosen any cooking residues from the bottom and sides of the pan, add half the gremolata to the pan and a little more warm water so that you have sufficient juice.
• Return the shanks to the pan, one at a time, turning them in the juices before returning them to the serving platter. Once all the slices have been coated in juices, pour any remaining juice over the meat on the platter and sprinkle the rest of the gremolata over the meat for a wonderful fragrant flavor.
• Serve at once with the Risotto Milanese.

Risotto Milanese

Ingredients

• 6 – 8 cups of meat or chicken stock, preferably homemade
• 3 tbsp butter
• 2 tbsp vegetable oil
• 1 medium size white or brown onion
• 2 cups imported Italian Arborio or other risotto rice
• ¾ cup dry white wine
• 1 pinch saffron threads
• ¾ cup freshly grated, (preferably Italian) Parmesan cheese
• Salt

Equipment

• 2 litre pot for simmering the stock
• 3 – 5 litre broad, sturdy pot for the risotto
• Wooden spoon
• Soup ladle

Method

• Bring the broth to a slow, steady simmer on a burner near where you will be cooking the risotto, keep it simmering gently
• Melt the butter and add the oil to the risotto pot over medium heat
• Add the onion and cook gently until transparent using a wooden spoon
• Add the rice, increase the heat slightly, stir with the wooden spoon, until the rice is coated in butter and glistening
• Add the wine and allow to steam for a few seconds
• When the wine is almost gone, add the first ladleful of hot stock and stir in to the rice
• Wait for this to be almost absorbed while stirring often, then add another ladle of hot stock
• Continue this until the rice is slightly chewy on the bite
• Dissolve the saffron in a ¼ cup of stock and add this to the risotto, stirring well.
• Bite into the rice, checking that it is cooked to the right consistency for your liking. You may not have used all the stock. Risotto served as a side dish, should not be too “soupy” as you have the sauces from the osso bucco on the plate as well.
• Remove the risotto pot from the heat and stir in the parmesan cheese.
• Check the seasoning and add salt if necessary
• Ensure your guests are seated before the risotto is ready.
• Serve the risotto with the osso bucco and a salad of baby radicchio and butter lettuces

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