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March 2012

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Cabernet Sauvignon

I have been to two very interesting wine tastings in the past month; they both focused on Cabernet Sauvignon, but offered 2 very different perspectives on this great grape variety.

The first tasting was titled ‘Cab Sav – NZ vs. Australia’ and provided some insights as to what this grape can be like young, as well as from 2 different viticultural regions.

Cabernet Sauvignon is often called ‘the King’ of red wine grapes, as it has a thick skin, which can make the resulting wine quite tannic (that sort of gritty feeling in your mouth) and often means Cab Sav is hard to drink young (almost 98% of all wine is consumed within a year of its release).

The wine maker has some control over the tannin levels (e.g., by limiting the amount of skin contact or blending with another grape like Merlot) but tannin (like acidity) is a good thing in wine – it is a glue that holds the wine together.

The second tasting was of wines from my personal cellar, California Cabs from 1984 and 1990, and some great French Bordeaux (which are usually a blend of several varietals but Cab Sav dominates in many communes) from the early 1980’s (including a 1983 Chateau Margaux) that, again, provided some wonderful examples of what a Cab Sav can taste like when it is allowed to mature to near perfection. The wines had lost or shed a good deal of their tannins (in the form of sediment) and the stunning, almost sweet Cab Sav fruit came shining and exploding through.

The two wines listed below were part of the first tasting and definitely worth seeking out!

Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot 2007 Margaret River

Australian wine critic James Halliday gives Vasse Felix (known for their outstanding Cabs) a 5 purple star (versus black) rating, which, in his words, means an ‘outstanding winery regularly producing wines of exemplary quality and typicity.’ This is one of their entry-level wines and consistently scores in the low 90s with Mr. Halliday. A wine with very nice forward, ripe, dark fruit; a lovely silky, viscous mouth feel on the palate and a gorgeous finish. $20.00

Geoff Merrill Wines Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Coonawarra/McLaren Vale

This is Geoff Merrill’s entry level offering, which he strives to make in a very approachable and drinkable style. A blend of Coonawarra (41%)and McLaren Vale (59%) vineyards, the 2005 vintage Cabernet Sauvignon displays aromas and flavours of black currant, black olive and mint, together with some wonderful chocolate characteristics. A wonderful wine for a cold winter’s night. $20.00


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