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March 2012

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Tis the season

At this time of year (or it seems almost any time of year) Melbourne is awash in a plethora of food and wine events that beg for your attention. In just the past month or so we have witnessed the rollout of the Gourmet Traveller Food and Wine Awards, the Age Good Food Guide Awards, the Taste of Melbourne Festival, Tasmania Unbottled and the Coonawarra Wine Roadshows. I find the majority of these events to be fairly well run, offer excellent value for money and an almost limitless opportunity to learn.

The Coonawarra Wine Roadshow was an awesome example as it assembled 29 or more of the region’s A-list producers under one roof (the Town Hall) pouring their latest releases (as well as barrel samples) and quite a few from their cellars or reserve series (like the 1992 Petaluma Merlot and the 2003 Petaluma Blend or the single vineyard releases from Wynns) for the measly fee of $25! Even if you had unlimited funds and time I do not think you could cobble together a vino experience like that (and to top it off you could easily leave the car at home and let the tram do the driving).

But one wine event deserves special mention – the recent Young Guns of Wine Festival (http://www.younggunofwine.com/ - put it on your calendar for next year!). It focuses, features and promotes the up and coming maverick wine makers of Australia. Some of you folks may be aware of the tough times the Australian wine industry has been enduring over the past few years as it found itself in an almost perfect storm with, in simple terms, over capacity or production on the supply side and declining consumption on the demand (both domestic and export) side. Couple that with a monolithic marketing image glued to the inexpensive so called ‘critter wines’ (e.g., Yellowtail) and a formidable barrier or hurdle has been erected that prevents or inhibits our wonderful Australian wines getting their due. Various groups have been forming (e.g., Artisans of the Barossa – coming here September 14th http://bit.ly/91oRNI or the Vale Cru) in an effort to affect some change but that is why the Young Guns of Wine carries tremendous importance in spreading the word and celebrating these wines and their makers. This year’s Critics Choice Award went to Rollo Crittenden of Crittenden Wines (http://crittendenwines.com.au/) for his Los Hermanos series and the Peoples Choice Award fell to Franco D’Anna of Hoddles Creek (http://www.hoddlescreekestate.com.au/) – both well deserved and set against some seriously talented competition.

Los Hermanos Homenaje a Cataluna 2009 $25

Los hermanosThis wine is a blend of 47% Tempranillo (from the King Valley), 35% Monastrell (or Mataro / Mouvedre) and 18% Garnacha (Grenache – both from the Mornington Peninsula) paying tribute to Spain’s traditional Catalonian blend. The short and sweet verdict? This is a most pleasurable drink – fruit sits right where it needs to be with perfect palate weight and all the Spanish spices your mind and tongue can conjure up.

Hoddles Creek Chardonnay 2009 $23

I am not sure what Franco D’Anna could possibly do wrong as he does so much, so right – and he’s a very nice guy to hoddles creekboot. He’s part of the Boccaccio Cellar family and started Hoddles Creek in 1997, just always hits the sweet spot on value for money. It has all the components I like in my Chardonnay – good acidity so a crisp finish/clean mouth feel with a beautifully balanced (not full on buttery) creamy layer. If you don’t want to spring for this Chardonnay try Franco’s 2nd label Wickhams Road for about $15. And also had the chance @ the Young Guns Tasting to try his Pinot Blanc 2009 (believe he told me 1st to be made in Australia) – worth every penny of the $36.

La Syrah (Garry Mills – Jamsheed Wines) 2009 $20

La SyrahAttended another maverick wine maker tasting, The South Pack crew (http://adamfoster.com.au/), at the Prince Wine Store (http://www.princewinestore.com.au/) in early September and felt I had to again make a mention of these wines. Jamsheed Wines (named after a Persian king - http://www.jamsheed.com.au/) came into existence in 2003 with an expressed desire to explore the terroir of the Yarra Valley (and beyond). This wine is 60% Yarra Valley and 40% Great Western Syrah. I loved this wine for its super savoury characters but yet in full possession of some ripe, ripe fruit.

Luke Lambert Yarra Valley Syrah 2009 $45

I have always coveted Luke Lambert wines but just found it hard to part with $45 (or $75 for the Reserve Nebbiolo) with outluke lambert a chance to taste – well this was my chance and I am a proud owner of a bottle of this wine. Luke had three wines at this tasting and I loved them all but decided to buy the Syrah with my girlfriend’s palate in mind (Nebbiolo can be tough to take on a young palate) and I am sure she will be pleased! This was just such a pleasure to swirl and sip – svelte and velvety in the mouth with wonderfully supportive fruits. Luke told me the vineyard is planted on a steep, rocky slope in St. Andrews and he felt that produced a more feminine, elegant style of Syrah. Hoorah for Rhône style reds!


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