I was fortunate recently to have the chance to get a wonderful refresher course and status update on some New Zealand wines.

The occasion was the Hot Red Hawke’s Bay Australian Roadshow, which landed in Melbourne and Sydney in late July, with a cornucopia of artisan Kiwi wine makers in attendance to discuss and sample their work. New Zealand does not make a lot of red wine on a relative basis (total New Zealand wine production does not even equal the output of the Barossa Valley alone) and what they do make does not always make its way to Australia (a good percentage of the wineries at the show were looking for Australian distributors) so it was a rare and privileged opportunity to re-acquaint my vinous palate and friendships.

The big buzz in the New Zealand red wine arena over the past couple of years has been the soaring star Syrah. Now just to remind you folks, Syrah is the same grape as our beloved Shiraz but the New Zealand wine makers have taken up the French moniker for the variety for possible marketing reasons or for the simple reason that New Zealand Syrah is a closer wine cousin to French Syrah (think Northern Rhône wines like Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie or Cornas) in terms of style (elegance and complexity and depth) and flavour (think cool climate white pepper and spice).

As I worked my way through the array of New Zealand Syrahs (and other wonderful reds like Te Mata’s Coleraine and Paritua’s ‘Red’) on pour, this difference was most definitely confirmed and deliciously enjoyed. And it is all the more amazing when you consider the fact that the Syrah in New Zealand almost wasn’t.

In a recent Decanter magazine article on New Zealand Syrah Tim Atkin MW related the lucky and fateful story of the last 10 vines of Syrah, which were rescued from a New Zealand government research station by Alan Limmer of Stonecroft Vineyard who laid the core foundation for the very Syrah I was tasting – wow. And not only did Alan Limmer rescue the last 10 vines but they turned out to be, according to Mr. Atkin, the perfect clone for New Zealand’s climate – small-berried, loose clustered and extremely fine. Talk about the Lucky Country!

The two New Zealand Syrahs I have reviewed and recommended below were selected because: (a) they were very good at the tasting and (b) I needed to choose wines that you actually might have a chance of finding and trying. I loved the Paritua, the Elephant Hill, the Bridge Pa (especially the Louis) and the Tin Pot Hut Syrahs (and other good reds) but I might send you barking up a nonexistent tree by reviewing and raving about how good they were. I did want to make one special mention to encourage you to seek this wine out and that is the Stonecroft 2008 Syrah (currently only available in Queensland for who knows why) was my fave at the show – a true Velvet Elvis.

Te Mata Estate Woodthorpe Syrah 2008 $24 - $26

This a solid entry level Syrah to try that is in the more affordable price range as many New Zealand Syrahs tend to be a wee bit pricey (probably due to limited and high costs of production?). It is a wine with the classic peppery spice flavors on the palate and up the nose with a nice ruby hue and raspberry and luscious plummy sweetness that makes great slurping. This wine has a Big Brother called Bullnose Syrah (about $45), which is worth a special splurge.

Trinity Hills Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2008 $36 - $38

I have always liked Trinity Hills wines and John Hancock the owner – his friendly, warm character seems to go straight through to his wines. This was in fine form at the Hot Red Hawke’s Bay Roadshow – with nice ripe fruit in the foreground with a velvety mouth feel with the partly co-fermented and blended Viognier adding that definite floral lift. Described by wine critic John Belsham at the recent Cuisine Syrah Tasting as a ‘great modern style.”

Collector Marked Tree Red Shiraz Canberra 2008 $28

I have thrown this Australian wine into the mix as many cool climate styles of Shiraz are being made throughout various regions of the country. Not quite like the New Zealand or French Rhone style but inching more towards that more elegant and complex arena than that of their brethren from the Barossa or McLaren Vale. My main word for this wine would be ‘seductive’ – it creeps up on you (in a great way) as you spend more time swirling, sniffing and slurping. Another workable word is ‘balanced’ – so many elements seem to just be in perfect harmony. Winemaker Alex McKay is one of the finalists for Gourmet Traveller WINE’s winemaker of the year – and he should be.

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