I was holidaying recently in Rome, happily ensconced close by the Campo di Fiori Market. The summer season leaves one spoilt for choice from the riotous colour of the stall displays of superbly fresh fruit and vegetables. Zucchini flowers abound, tomatoes of every shape and size, fragrant peaches and woodland strawberries, the tiniest of green beans and of course countless herbs and variations for salad items.

Despite the microscopic culinary arrangements in our apartment, we were determined to shop at the market each morning and prepare at least one meal a day from these gorgeous ingredients, we just had to be creative in doing so.

I discovered a fresh pasta shop just off the market and having already dealt with reconfiguring my dreams of rolling out fresh pasta on a daily basis I recognized a wonderful opportunity. We could still cook excellent fresh pasta while in Rome, learn from the locals what sauce goes with which and fundamentally embrace the simplicity of this most versatile of meals. I have decidedly rudimentary Italian but the passion of the proprietor for his produce and my obvious enthusiasm in eliciting from him the most intricate detail of his recommendations and combinations won over. He sent me off with a 750g boxed parcel of the spinach and ricotta ravioli for our party of four for the price of 10 euros. He turned up his nose at my idea of preparing a fresh tomato and basil sauce and suggested this pasta is best and most simply served with melted butter, Parmesan cheese and finely chopped salvia (sage).

The children had spent the morning at the Vatican museum and even though I wasn’t expecting them back before 1.30 I knew that they would be hot, bothered and ravenous on their return. Charming as a coffee and a cornetto at a local bar may be, it is a breakfast that hardly smacks of sustenance, which is why most Italians enjoy their main meal for the day at lunch. Mind you a solitary dish of pasta hardly constitutes the complications of what the Italians refer to as their main meal, still we were eating out that evening and it was over 30 degrees celcius outside.

While you may think I am being mean waxing on about summer temperatures, holidays and ingredients in these deepest darkest days of Melbourne winter, I only persist with this story and idea because this dish is one that is perfect at any time of year; as ideal in Rome in the height of Summer as it is in Melbourne in the depths of Winter. Fresh Ravioli or Tortellini are in fact the most perfect ingredients to keep on hand for a quick and satisfying meal in any time or place; Something to put together after work or before heading out for the evening. Australian suppliers recommend 200 – 250g for a generous serve per person. The pasta freezes well in a plastic container, cooks in less than ten minutes and involves no fuss what so ever.

Ravioli alla Burro e Salvia (Ravioli with Butter and Sage)

For 4 people

Ingredients

• 750g – 1kg Spinach and Ricotta Ravioli
• 125g butter
• Parmesan Cheese
• Salt and Pepper
• 20 – 30 Sage leaves, finely sliced

Equipment

• A large pot for cooking the pasta in, 5 – 8 litres
• A Perforated Spoon
• A warmed oven proof serving dish
• A small fry pan

Method

• Bring a large pot of salted water to a gentle boil
• Gently slide the pasta into the pot and cook for about 4 minutes
• Gently heat the butter in the small pan and cook the sage leaves, allowing the flavor to infuse the butter
• As the Ravioli rise to the top, lift them out with the perforated spoon and place them in the heated serving dish
• Grate Parmesan cheese over the pasta and then pour the melted butter and sage over
• Serve immediately with additional cheese at the table.

Tortellini alla Panna (Tortellini with Cream)

For 4 people

This simple alternative to the Ravioli dish described above and offered by Elizabeth David in Italian Food should not be ignored.

Tortellini is a famous Bolognese dish and routinely found on restaurant menus throughout Italy. Traditionally it is served in private homes on Christmas Eve. In her chapter on Ravioli, Gnocchi, etc Elizabeth David too is very dismissive of drowning these stuffed pastas in a tomato sauce and praises the merits of cream or butter instead. While these days such options are not necessarily considered quite PC, you have to savor the simplicity of this rich and filling dish at least once in a while.

Ingredients

• 750g – 1kg Tortellini with a meat stuffing
• 250ml Cream
• Salt and Pepper
• Equipment
• A large pot for cooking the pasta in, 5 – 8 litres
• A Perforated Spoon
• A warmed oven proof serving dish
• A medium size fry pan

Method

• Bring a large pot of salted water to a gentle boil
• Gently slide the tortellini into the pot and cook for about 4 minutes
• Gently heat the cream in a fry pan
• As the Tortellini rise to the top, lift them out with the perforated spoon and place them in the heated cream, allow the tortellini time to ‘thoroughly imbibe the cream’. Season with salt and pepper and serve from a heated dish.

Variations:

• Try cooking a single serve of ravioli or tortellini n a smaller pot of gently boiling meat broth instead of salted water
• Cook the tortellini or ravioli in salted water and serve in hot meat broth.

Do not confuse the fresh pasta recommended in this article with the ubiquitous products from those convenient supermarket aisles.

Melbourne boasts a number of wonderful fresh pasta shops but worth an exploration and convenient to Tribune readers in the Port Philip domain are:

Farinaci Fresh Pasta
662 GlenHuntly Rd,
Caulfield South,
9528 6076

Pasta Fresca
171 Centre Rd,
>Bentleigh,
9557 5269

Both of these come highly recommended in TOP 5, The Best of Melbourne (2009). Tortellini and Ravioli sell for about $15.50 – 22.00 per kg, depending upon the filling. As a first course 100 – 150g per person is ample.

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